Yuck! We're officially done "pre-heating" in Florida, and the heat has arrived! The last two were 95F and the humidity was so high that you've felt like a boiled Lobster being outside or to make it more relatable... imagine stepping into a hot shower... fully dressed with Makeup on! Since our Feathery pals don't care whether we're hot or not, we had to start our chores early this week to beat the relentless heat! First up was getting rid of the Pine Shavings in our coops and switching over to Pine pellets, a decision we have NOT regretted! Day 4, and the coops can be sifted like Kitty Litter and smell as fresh as day one! Next up, we picked up some Blueberry Bushes 2 weeks ago that also needed to be planted. Blueberries like a more acidic soil and so we had to make some amendments to ensure proper growth. Also, yellow flies and Gnats are HORRID right now, and we opted to hang fly traps in different places around the property. Beyond that, our John Deere had an issue (it was being looked at), and we had to dig out our trusty electric mower to give our garden a much-needed haircut! Needless to say, that is not all we did, as I still had to work, and Luna Roaches also had orders to fulfill so Chris and I just sleuthed away this week on various projects. I tackled the stuff inside while Chris (who must have been a Lizard in his former life because this is his kind of weather) tackled most of the chores outside. Due to having Skin Lupus, I, however, have to avoid the sun like it's a plague and thus tackle life inside our home. I made fresh Yogurt, baked some bread, processed 2 Chickens, and canned about 12 jars of Chicken Stock for the pantry. while I had the time with the long weekend, I finally got to use some of the Cilantro we're growing outside, and added it to a delicious Coconut Thai Curry Chicken dish. Oh, so worth it!! Overall it's really been an amazing week so far. This is also the first year that our 2 year old Plum tree sprung into action and is loaded with plums. They turned out delicious, juicy, and sweet! Last night we went outside and took a UV light to our tomatoes. Did you know that Hornworms, {major tomato destroyers) glow in the dark under a UV light? Lucky for them, there were none or our Chickens would have enjoyed a juicy snack ;) Besides doing that, Chris and I enjoy a moment of beautiful nighttime sounds of Crickets, Frogs, and Whippoorwill birds. The sky was clear, and you could count all of the stars. Sometimes you have to take a breather and enjoy a moment of Mother Nature on your Homestead. Last but not least, we sent the Chickens to earn their keep and have them turn the compost for us! They do as stellar job and provides them with enrichment and us with a much-needed break! See you next week!

I've been utterly fascinated with learning the language of bees. They are "scrubbing" the entrance here. (This is the equivalent of scrubbing clothes with a washboard!) Bees have a fascinating way of communicating with each other through a combination of body movements, pheromones, and even dances. One remarkable example is the waggle dance performed by honeybees to communicate the location of food sources to other hive members. Here's how it works: Scouting for Food: When a worker bee finds a good source of nectar or pollen, it returns to the hive. The Dance: The returning bee performs a dance on the vertical surface of the honeycomb, waggling its abdomen while moving in a figure-eight pattern. Direction: The angle of the waggle relative to the vertical comb indicates the direction of the food source in relation to the sun's position. For example, if the dance is performed straight up, it means the food source is directly towards the sun. If the dance is performed at an angle to the right of vertical, it means the food source is to the right of the sun's position. Distance: The duration of the waggle portion of the dance correlates with the distance to the food source. Longer waggle phases indicate greater distance. Intensity: The vigor of the dance communicates the quality of the food source. A more intense waggle dance suggests a richer or more abundant food source. By observing and interpreting these dances, other worker bees can quickly learn the location, distance, and quality of the food source and then navigate to it themselves. This remarkable form of communication allows honeybee colonies to efficiently exploit food resources in their environment. We'll try to catch detailed videos of Bee Language in future videos :)

Sweet Potatoes are one of the easiest crops you can grow in Florida and oh so delicious! But let's start at the beginning... What is a Sweet Potato? A sweet potato is a root vegetable that belongs to the Convolvulaceae family, along with other plants like morning glories. It's usually cultivated for its edible tuberous root, which is sweet and starchy in taste and has a smooth texture when cooked, but Sweet Potato Leaves are also edible and delicious in dishes. Sweet potatoes come in various colors, including orange, purple, and white, and they're rich in nutrients like vitamins A and C, potassium, and fiber. They can be cooked in various ways, such as baking, boiling, steaming, or frying, and are used in both sweet and savory dishes. We all had Sweet Potatoes given to us at someone Thanksgiving - no doubt ;) That said, aside from being nutritious, Sweet Potatoes are a low-maintenance crop. You grow the slips, cut them off the potato and stick it into the ground and don't worry about the plant again until it's time to harvest. In short... my kind of crop! How to grow Sweet Potato Slips Here's a basic guide on how to grow them: Start with a Sweet Potato: Choose a healthy sweet potato from a local market or grocery store. You'll want organic sweet potatoes because they have usually not been treated with chemicals that could inhibit sprouting. No sprouting = No Sweet Potatoes. Prepare the Sweet Potato: You'll find many different methods online, but I am going to share only mine because it's never failed us. Place the sweet potato horizontally into a container with dirt. Bury it halfway into the dirt. Place in a Warm, Sunny Spot: Put the container in a warm location with plenty of sunlight. Sweet potatoes need warmth and light to sprout. Ideal temperatures are around 75-80°F and up! Mine seem to grow like weeds at 85F though! Wait for Sprouts: In about 2-4 weeks, you should start to see sprouts emerging from the sweet potato . These sprouts are called slips. You can let them grow until they're around 6-8 inches long or longer or shorter. The first ones are usually about 4 inches long before i cut them off and plant them because... I ran out of patience waiting LOL Remove the Slips: Once the slips have grown to a suitable length, carefully twist or cut them off from the sweet potato. Make sure each slip has several leaves and some roots. This is advised but not necessary. I've planted some that were a stick with one leaf and they took off just fine. Root the Slips: Place the slips in a container of water, ensuring that the roots are submerged while the leaves remain above water. Let them root for about a week or two until you see a healthy root system develop. If you want, you can also stick them straight into the ground, but they may take a little longer to take off. Planting: After rooting, transplant the slips into soil. Choose a sunny spot in your garden with well-drained soil. Plant the slips about 12-18 inches apart and bury them halfway so the roots are covered but the leaves are above ground. Care: Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged. Sweet potatoes require regular watering, especially during dry periods. Mulching around the plants can help retain moisture and suppress weeds. As we're getting into the rainy season, this isn't really an issue, but during drought, if they are still young plants, they will need some help. Harvesting: Sweet potatoes are typically ready to harvest 3-4 months after planting, once the leaves begin to turn yellow and die back. Carefully dig around the plants to avoid damaging the tubers. The next step is of the utmost importance, or you'll end up with non-sweet potatoes that rot much more easily. Curing sweet potatoes is an important step in the post-harvest process. Curing helps sweet potatoes develop their characteristic sweet flavor and improves their storage How to cure Sweet potatoes properly: Harvest at the right time: Sweet potatoes should be harvested when they have reached their full size and are mature. The ideal time for harvesting is after the foliage has started to yellow but before the first frost. Handle with care: Be gentle when harvesting sweet potatoes to avoid bruising or damaging the skin. Bruised or damaged sweet potatoes are more susceptible to rot during curing. Clean the sweet potatoes: Gently brush off any excess soil from the sweet potatoes after harvesting. Do not wash them with water, as moisture can promote decay during curing. Allow them to dry: Place the sweet potatoes in a warm and well-ventilated area to dry for about 1-2 hours. This drying period helps to toughen the skin and prepare the sweet potatoes for curing. Curing process: The curing process requires a warm and humid environment, similar to the conditions of a greenhouse. The ideal temperature for curing sweet potatoes is around 80-85°F with a humidity level of 85-90%. Since we harvested ours in mid-October, we obviously didn't have that much humidity anymore. We put a sheet on our table on the deck, put them all on there, and threw another blanket on top of it. You can, however, create a curing chamber if you feel the need to: If you don't have access to a greenhouse or warm room, you can create a simple curing chamber using a small enclosed space like a basement, garage, or closet. Place a pan of water in the curing chamber to increase humidity. Curing duration: Sweet potatoes should be cured for about 10-14 days (I prefer 14 days). During this time, the starches in the sweet potatoes will convert to sugars, enhancing their sweetness. Check for signs of completion: After the curing period, check the sweet potatoes for signs of completion. The skin should be tough, and the flesh should be sweet and flavorful. Store properly: Once the sweet potatoes have been cured, store them in a cool, dry, and dark place with good ventilation. The ideal storage temperature is around 55-60°F—again, we're in Florida, so we just put them into our pantry room, which generally stays around 70°F in the winter and 74°F or so in the summer. However, do not refrigerate sweet potatoes, as cold temperatures can adversely affect their flavor and texture. Following these steps will help you cure sweet potatoes properly, resulting in sweeter and tastier tubers that can be stored for an extended period. Enjoy your freshly cured sweet potatoes in various dishes and recipes! We certainly do, and after six months of sitting in our Pantry, they are as fresh and firm as ever :) We hope this helps!

So first minor catastrophe in bee keeping: We went to check on the hive again to see if we can find the queen to mark her. Success, first frame there she is! Pretty, isn't it?? Bees are so fascinating and we finally were ready to mark our Queen! At that point, chaos ensues when the entire brood comb collapses and falls off the frame into the grass! Time stopped for a second as we grasped what just happened before the following transpired: With lightning speed, we grabbed the comb full of bees, honey, and whatnot, scooped it up, and put it in the now empty frame spot. It was instinct to put it back where it came from no matter how bad of a decision this may turn out to be (we don't know yet!). Chris started picking up bees off the grass that were sticky with honey and had a hard time moving and put them back in the hive. We put the hive back together, put the queen excluder on, and added the Super on top. At that point, we came inside, snapped at each other for a moment out of frustration (Oh yeah! That's actually happened, lol), calmed down, and called Chris's nephew, who's an experienced beekeeper. He calmed us down quite a bit by telling us that the bees would clean the mess up and it would be OK. Once they clean everything up we can check and see if our Queen is still alive. If not, one of two things will happen. We will either re-queen our hive by buying a new queen, or the hive will create a new queen. We ended up bringing the now empty frame inside, putting a bee wax foundation in it (so they'll have a head start when it goes back into the hive), and adding Rubber bands for comb stability (most folks wire the frames, but since we're beginners, we totally didn't know that, and the beekeeper nephew said rubber bands work just as well). So now we wait. We wait to see if they clean up the hive after our mess, and we wait to see if the Queen is still alive since she was on the dropped comb somewhere. Amazingly, the bees were calm enough, and while stressed when the comb bit the dust, neither of us got stung, and Chris was able to handle the individual bees (and help them not get pestered by Fire ants that, of course, caught wind of the situation.... opportunistic little bastards!) without issues. I feel like Beekeeping is not for the faint of heart and I swear I stopped breathing for a minute lol ... that was definitely stressful but we've learned a lot of valuable lessons! And now the lesson Chris learned:

When we ordered our Bees we got our package with an unmarked Queen. What does that even mean you wonder? An unmarked queen is simply a queen bee in a beehive that hasn't been marked with a dot of paint on her thorax. Beekeepers often mark queen bees with a small dot of brightly colored paint to make them easier to spot during hive inspections. They literally sell paint kits for this because you can't just put any old paint on a bee. The color of the paint corresponds to the year the queen bee was introduced into the hive, which helps you as a beekeeper to track her age and productivity because every few years, you'll need to re-queen your hive so that it remains productive. Also we wanted to see if we could add a Super on top yet. Hoooold up Mel... what is a Super? I agree, it's a lot of new terms and we've learned those as we went along. In beekeeping, the "super" refers to a section of the beehive where surplus honey is stored by the honey bees. It's essentially an additional box or compartment placed above the brood chamber (where the queen bee lays her eggs and the worker bees care for the larvae) to provide extra space for honey storage. Supers are typically added to the hive during the flowering season. The honey bees then collect nectar from flowers, convert it into honey (Ha! Wait until we get into that at a later blog in time!), and store it in the cells of the frames within the super. Once the frames are filled with capped honey, indicating that it's ready for harvest, beekeepers can remove the super and extract the honey. We will not be doing that, though, since we have a Flow Hive, and it's just not needed. On our Hive, we turn a key, the Flow frames separate, the Honey flows in a Jar on tap, and we turn the key again to restore the Frames to their original state... minus the Honey. No disturbance to the bees and from our perspective, no messy extraction job. Back to the Story! We put on safety equipment, lit our Bee Smoker, and marched into the yard. Now, you may wonder why beekeepers have smokers. The Smoker serves several purposes: Calming Bees:  When bees detect smoke, they interpret it as a signal that their hive is at risk of fire. In response, they gorge themselves on honey in preparation to flee the hive, reducing their aggression and making them less likely to sting. (We didn't really need it for this inspection as our Bees were super calm but safety should always be number 1) Masking Pheromones: Honey bees communicate using pheromones released by their bodies. When a hive is opened for inspection, the disruption can trigger defensive behavior in the bees. By introducing smoke into the hive, the smoker masks these alarm pheromones, reducing the likelihood of defensive responses from the bees. Bees communicate and respond to all kinds of things and we'll get to that at a later time as well. Hive Inspections: The calming effect of smoke allows beekeepers to conduct hive inspections more safely and efficiently. By minimizing the risk of bee stings and aggression, beekeepers can work more comfortably and effectively, which is essential for tasks like checking hive health, monitoring honey production, and managing hive conditions which is exactly what you do Hive inspections for. Today, our primary task was to find the Queen and mark her. This task included looking at all of our frames to see if you could spot her. Now, in a sea of bees, this is a near-impossible task. If you look at the following pictures, you kind of get an idea of what we were looking at, and it was really like trying to find Waldo! It's also the reason why marked bees are so important because you want to spend as little time as possible disturbing your bees! Spoiler Alert: We were NOT successful, but practice makes perfect. Someone told us spotting your Queen takes practice, and we're definitely here for that! Luckily, we did not really need to use the Smoker or wear the bee jacket as our bees were chilled out and relaxed, but it is still a good practice and safety measure. We made sure we put the frames back in the right order and closed up the hive. Oh, we also didn't add the Super yet. The standard rule is 7/10, or when the bees cover 7 out of the existing 10 frames, at that point, it's the proper time to add the Honey Super! We'll just have to practice more patience :)

We've never had to battle any sort of chicken issues that you would normally see with Chickens like Parasites, Sour Crop, Bumble Foot, egg-related issues, Coccidiosis, Respiratory infections etc. These are rather common with Chickens, yet somehow we've evaded all of them. Imagine our surprise when a few days ago, we've discovered we had Chicken Mites! Just the word gives me the heebie jeebies! But here we were, newcomers to serious issues, and we had to address the problem. Why didn't we discover this earlier? Well, we noticed feathers missing behind their heads but thought that Polaris, our Rooster, had simply given in to spring feelings and was being too enthusiastic during mating. After consulting with the University of YouTube, where the consensus was that Elector PSP was the best treatment choice, we set out to order the goods (Holy Moly, an 8-oz bottle is $160!). Luckily, we found a small Homestead that sells it in 9ml potions, which is all we needed. That amount makes a 1 Gallon of treatment, more than enough to treat our Chickens and the coop very thoroughly. When the tiny bottle arrived today, Chris decided he would go tackle the flock by himself since I was still tied to my desk by my regular 9-5 job. I asked him to take a video for me. What transpired next was ... well.. it was Chris. PS: No Chickens were harmed in the making of this video LOL

This little bottle has saved me from losing my marbles and prevented me from believing that my body temperature indeed has reached 150F! I am turning 53 this year, and with that, a new chapter of being that eventually reaches almost every woman - Menopause. I think this is not necessarily a topic very often openly discussed by women, but let's do that for a moment. I had my tubes tied in 1993 on Valentine's Day the year after my youngest was born. I was sure I was done with having children and saw no reason not to go through with the procedure and did so happily. Years of monthly hell followed because what they didn't tell you expressively is what it can do to your body in some cases. I have dealt with it for 31 years and so imagine my not so unpleasant surprise when Hot flashes started. Perimenopause - you beautiful Beast! What I wasn't prepared for was being fine and out of nowhere feeling like someone just poured lava on me LOL Insert herbalism! Since I knew that eventually, my reproductive years would start waving goodbye, I have been researching for a while on how I wanted to handle the transition. I plan on doing this 100% naturally and rather replace what Hormones I can the herbal way. I prepped some Black Cohosh, Vitex, Black Licorice Root, and some other stuff and have been trying out those three over the past few weeks. Since the only noticeable issue, I am having right now is Hot Flashes, this little All-star Root has been my life saver! A dropperful or a dropper and a half when I feel the onset of a Hot flash (4-5 times a day in the beginning, but now I am at 2-3 times a day) and my life get's so much better ❤ So here's to Plants! May they continue to reign in all of their beauty and superior usefulness! To make a licorice root tincture, you'll need licorice root (Glycyrrhiza glabra), high-proof alcohol (such as vodka or brandy), a clean glass jar with a tight-fitting lid, and optionally, a dark glass dropper bottle for storage. Here's a simple method: Ingredients: Dried licorice root (cut and sifted) High-proof alcohol (at least 80 proof, such as vodka or brandy) Instructions: Prepare the Licorice Root: Start by obtaining dried licorice root from a reputable source. You can use licorice root chips or cut and sifted licorice root for this tincture. Ensure that the licorice root is clean and free from any dirt or debris. Ratio: The typical ratio for making a tincture is 1 part dried herb to 5 parts alcohol by volume. However, licorice root is quite potent, so you may want to start with a lower ratio, such as 1 part licorice root to 3 parts alcohol. Combine Ingredients: Place the dried licorice root in a clean glass jar. Pour the high-proof alcohol over the licorice root, ensuring that it is completely submerged. Seal the jar tightly with a lid. Shake and Store: Shake the jar well to thoroughly mix the licorice root and alcohol. Store the jar in a cool, dark place, away from direct sunlight and heat. Steeping Time: Allow the licorice root to steep in the alcohol for at least 4 to 6 weeks. During this time, shake the jar gently every few days to agitate the mixture. Strain: After the steeping period, strain the tincture through a fine mesh strainer or cheesecloth to remove the licorice root solids. Squeeze the strainer or cheesecloth to extract as much liquid as possible. Bottle and Store: Transfer the strained tincture into dark glass dropper bottles for storage. Label the bottles with the date and contents. Store the tincture in a cool, dark place, and it should remain potent for several years. Dosage: The dosage of licorice root tincture can vary depending on the individual and the intended use. It's best to start with a small dose (e.g., a few drops) and gradually increase as needed, following the guidance of a qualified healthcare professional, especially if using licorice root for medicinal purposes. Important Note: Licorice root can interact with certain medications and may not be suitable for everyone, especially for those with high blood pressure, kidney disease, or other health conditions. It's important to consult with a healthcare professional before using licorice root or any herbal remedy, especially in tincture form.

We were going to go to a Flower expo but due to a Homedepot delivery it was getting too late and too hot. Instead, we went to ACE's hardware here, and I scored big time for my Food Forrest! 2 x Lychee Mauritius - Litchi chinensis Loquat- Eriobotrya japonica Starfruit - Averrhoa carambola Santa Rosa Plum - Ciruelo Santa Rosa Black Sapote - Diospyros nigra I only stopped buying because we ran out of space in the back of our SUV and we didn't bring the trailer! LOL Yes, we could have started everything from seed ourselves but Fruit Trees take a few years to produce and grow and I wanted some tree's that already were big enough to have a head start! We're still waiting on these 3 x 4-5 foot trees from tytyga.com: 1 Morris Plum 1 Loquat 1 Anna Apple tree Starter Plants (between 2-12 inches tall) 1 x Guava tree 1 x Tropical almonds 4 x Purple Passion Fruits 1 x Gojii Berry Along with the stuff we are planting from seeds, this should be a good starting point for our Florida Zone 9b Permaculture Food Forrest! (For the Fruit producing tree's anyway)

All you really have to do is go outside and stare into the vast abyss that is your property and trust me, there will be 127864127864 Projects that magically appear on your To do list. That's at least how it out here! Chris is thrilled about the longer days; to him, this means there are a few extra hours he can work outside. For me, this means dinner is now at 8 pm instead of 6 pm, because once you eat dinner, nothing else work-wise happens! This morning started innocently enough. We had a cup of coffee and decided to watch a few Beekeeping YouTube videos. The dogs wanted out and that was the end of what almost felt like it was going to be a lazy day. As I stepped outside, I was reminded that I needed to harvest the last test bed of Potatoes. I like trying out a few new things in a few raised garden beds to see how they work out. Do they grow? Are they high-maintenance plants? Do they need much help from me growing? The end result is that the few Potato plants I tried out did well, and next season, we're going to do this on a much larger scale. While I was out there, I went to check on the bulbing onions I was also trying out for the first time this year and decided to pull one. So far, so good (we'll use that one in dinner tonight!), and then I spotted some beans that needed to be picked. At this point, I had succumbed to the idea that this was what I was going to be doing for the next 30 minutes. The Sun was still not high enough to bother me, and I was feeling the morning energy in my garden. At this point Chris decided it would be a good time to go back out and build the chicken run (more on that in another post). As I took my bounty back inside, I spotted black mulberries that were begging me to eat them. Who am I to argue with a Mulberry bush? Last year I radically trimmed the Mulberry bush by cutting off 50% of every single branch and removing all leaves. It came back with a vengeance and if you're interested in the why and how, Jacqueline from the Wild Floridan is where I got that idea from! It worked well, and my Mulberry bush is absolutely LOADED with big juicy berries this season as you can see below. I harvested a bunch and I'll make something with those for dessert. And then we spotted the most amazing thing! Our Pineapple Guava started to bloom for the first time ever, and lord are those flowers GORGEOUS!! We're hoping it will fruit this year for the first time as well! Aren't these flowers beautiful?! At this point, the sun was starting to bother me, and I went back inside, but the morale of the story? If you want to be busy, just walk outside... ;)

It's about that time of the year when I put my yearly order of Ladybugs (specifically Hippodamia convergens) in! (And no, they are not Asian Ladybug beetles but indeed are Hippodamia convergens LOL) Chris and I release about 6000 to 9000 ladybugs every year for Aphid control and it's highly successful since we make it through the year without aphid issues. Every year this is an almost spiritual experience for us. We order from https://www.naturesgoodguys.com/ and this will be our third year. So why should you add ladybugs to your yard? Adding ladybugs to your yard can be beneficial for several reasons: Natural Pest Control: Ladybugs are voracious predators of aphids, scale insects, mealybugs, and other soft-bodied pests that can damage plants in your yard or garden. By introducing ladybugs, you can help control these pest populations in an eco-friendly and natural way, reducing the need for chemical pesticides. Balanced Ecosystem: Ladybugs are part of a healthy ecosystem and contribute to the balance of beneficial insects in your yard. By attracting and supporting populations of ladybugs, you can encourage biodiversity and create a more resilient ecosystem that is less prone to pest outbreaks. Pollination: While ladybugs are primarily known as predators, some species also feed on pollen and nectar. By providing a diverse range of flowering plants in your yard, you can attract ladybugs and other pollinators, helping to enhance pollination and improve fruit and seed set in your garden. Educational Opportunity: Introducing ladybugs to your yard can also provide an educational opportunity, especially for children. Observing the lifecycle of ladybugs, from eggs to larvae to pupae to adults, can help teach valuable lessons about the natural world and the importance of beneficial insects in the garden. Non-toxic Solution: Using ladybugs for pest control is a non-toxic and environmentally friendly alternative to chemical pesticides. Ladybugs do not harm plants or other beneficial insects, making them a safe and sustainable option for controlling pests in your yard or garden. Overall, adding ladybugs to your yard can help promote a healthy and thriving garden ecosystem while reducing the need for harmful pesticides. Whether you purchase ladybugs from a garden center or create a habitat to attract them naturally, these beneficial insects can play a valuable role in maintaining a balanced and resilient landscape. And trust us, releasing that many ladybugs is a spiritual experience! Won't they fly away though? Often, they will eventually, but here is a tip that helped us: Buy Ladybug food, dilute it with water per instructions, and spray your plants with it. Release Ladybugs at Twilight to ensure that they stick around.

Last year, we grew Cassava, aka Yuca (not the same thing as Yucca), for the first time! We got a really good amount of harvest from the 10 we planted and when we were done, we gave away a ton of cuttings to our Homesteading neighbors. We had a TON left and I now had to figure out how to store it best so that it would survive until spring. I ended up putting them all in a big black garbage bag, left the bag open, and put it in one of our sheds. This method did not fail me, and when I went and checked out what survived so I could plant them, all but one out of the 50 or so are viable! GO ME! I'll be planting some for foilage and looks along the fence and a bunch for harvest and eating! I am so thrilled this worked and they didn't dry out and died in the last 3-4 months!! What is Cassava you may ask? Cassava, also known as Manihot or yuca, is a starchy root vegetable native to South America but grown in tropical and subtropical regions around the world. It is a staple food for millions of people in Africa, Asia, and Latin America. Cassava is a major source of carbohydrates in many developing countries and is valued for its ability to grow in poor soil and tolerate drought conditions. The cassava plant has palm-like leaves and produces tuberous roots that can vary in size from a few inches to several feet long. These roots are rich in carbohydrates and can be harvested and processed into various forms for consumption. Cassava can be boiled, mashed, fried, or ground into flour, which is then used to make a variety of dishes such as bread, cakes, and dumplings. One important thing to note about cassava is that it contains cyanogenic glycosides, which can release cyanide when consumed in large quantities. Therefore, proper processing techniques such as peeling, soaking, and cooking are necessary to remove the toxins and make the cassava safe to eat. How do you grow Cassava? Cassava (Manihot esculenta) is primarily grown in tropical and subtropical regions around the world. It thrives in warm climates with temperatures consistently above 60°F (15°C). Generally, cassava is cultivated in USDA hardiness zones 9b through 11, although it can also be grown as an annual crop in zones with shorter growing seasons. Specifically, cassava grows well in regions with the following conditions: Temperature: Cassava requires temperatures between 77°F to 86°F (25°C to 30°C) for optimal growth. It can tolerate brief periods of temperatures above 95°F (35°C) as well as occasional light frost, but prolonged exposure to cold temperatures can damage the plant. Rainfall: While cassava is relatively drought-tolerant and can grow in areas with low rainfall, it performs best with consistent moisture. Adequate rainfall or irrigation is important, especially during the growing season, to ensure proper root development. Sunlight: Cassava is a sun-loving plant and requires full sun for optimal growth. It should be planted in a location with at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight per day. Soil: Cassava can adapt to a wide range of soil types but prefers well-drained sandy loam or loamy soil with a pH between 5.5 and 6.5. It does not thrive in waterlogged or heavy clay soils. Given these requirements, cassava is commonly grown in tropical and subtropical regions of Africa, Asia, Latin America, and the Caribbean, where these conditions are met. However, it can also be cultivated in certain warmer regions of temperate climates. Here's a general guide on how to grow cassava: Selecting planting material: Cassava is typically grown from stem cuttings rather than seeds. Select healthy stems from mature cassava plants, ensuring they are free from disease and damage. Each cutting should be about 20-30 centimeters long and contain at least two to three nodes. Preparing the planting site: Choose a sunny location with well-drained soil. Cassava can tolerate a range of soil types but prefers sandy loam soil with a pH between 5.5 and 6.5. Clear the land of weeds and debris and prepare the soil by loosening it to a depth of about 20-30 centimeters. Planting: Plant the cassava cuttings horizontally in shallow trenches or furrows, with the nodes facing upwards. Space the cuttings about 1 to 1.5 meters apart to allow room for growth. Cover the cuttings with soil, leaving the top node exposed. Watering: Water the newly planted cassava cuttings thoroughly to help establish their roots. Cassava requires regular watering, especially during dry periods, but it is important not to overwater as it can lead to root rot. Weeding and maintenance: Keep the planting area free from weeds, which can compete with cassava for nutrients and water. Mulching around the plants can help suppress weeds and conserve soil moisture. Fertilize the cassava plants regularly with a balanced fertilizer to promote healthy growth. Harvesting: Cassava typically takes about 8 to 18 months to mature, depending on the variety and growing conditions. The roots can be harvested when they reach a desirable size, usually indicated by the yellowing of the lower leaves and the softening of the stem. To harvest, carefully dig up the roots, taking care not to damage them. So if you are in a Tropical Climate, this may be just the plant for your Homestead too!

Okinawa Okinawa spinach, also known as Gynura bicolor or Sambung Nyawa, is a leafy green vegetable native to Southeast Asia, particularly Indonesia, Malaysia, and the Philippines. Despite its name, it is not a true spinach (Spinacia oleracea) but rather a member of the Asteraceae family. Okinawa spinach is known for its vibrant purple stems and green leaves, which are edible and have a mild, slightly peppery flavor. The leaves can be eaten raw in salads or sandwiches, or cooked as a vegetable in stir-fries, soups, and other dishes. Additionally, the plant is valued for its medicinal properties in traditional herbal medicine practices in some regions. Okinawa spinach is a fast-growing and relatively low-maintenance plant, making it popular among home gardeners and permaculture enthusiasts. It prefers warm, tropical climates and well-drained soil, and it can be grown both in the ground and in containers. The plant thrives in full sun to partial shade and requires regular watering to keep the soil evenly moist. One notable characteristic of Okinawa spinach is its ability to propagate easily from stem cuttings, making it easy to propagate and share among gardeners. It is also known for its resilience and ability to withstand pests and diseases, making it a reliable addition to home gardens and sustainable food production systems. Overall, Okinawa spinach is a nutritious and versatile vegetable that adds both color and flavor to culinary dishes. Here's a simple recipe for Okinawa spinach stir-fry: Ingredients: 2 cups Okinawa spinach leaves, washed and chopped 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 tablespoon olive oil or vegetable oil 1 teaspoon soy sauce 1/2 teaspoon sesame oil (optional) Salt and pepper to taste Red pepper flakes (optional, for added spice) Sesame seeds for garnish (optional) Instructions: Heat the olive oil in a large skillet or wok over medium heat. Add the minced garlic to the skillet and sauté for 1-2 minutes until fragrant. Add the chopped Okinawa spinach leaves to the skillet and stir-fry for 3-4 minutes until they begin to wilt. Drizzle the soy sauce and sesame oil (if using) over the spinach, and season with salt, pepper, and red pepper flakes to taste. Stir to combine. Continue to cook for another 2-3 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the spinach is tender but still vibrant green. Remove the skillet from heat and transfer the stir-fried Okinawa spinach to a serving dish. Garnish with sesame seeds if desired, and serve hot as a side dish or over cooked rice as a main course. We also use it in Quiches all the time! The funny part is, it tastes exactly like Carrots!