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Companion planting is not just a gardening technique; it is a powerful practice that can transform your homestead into a thriving oasis. By selecting the right plant combinations, you can maximize your space, enhance growth, and deter pests naturally. This guide will walk you through the essentials of companion planting, helping you make the most of your garden. What is Companion Planting? Companion planting involves placing different crops close together to promote mutual benefits. This can include repelling pests, enhancing growth, minimizing diseases, and supporting pollination. It's like teaming up different plants to boost their collective health. Recognizing which plants have supportive relationships can lead to a more productive garden. Benefits of Companion Planting The advantages of companion planting are numerous. Here are a few notable ones: Natural Pest Control : Certain plants act as natural repellents. For example, marigolds can reduce nematode populations and deter aphids by up to 75%, protecting your essential vegetable crops. Enhanced Growth : Some pairings can trigger better growth. Studies show that when basil is planted with tomatoes, it can increase tomato yields by 20% while improving their flavor. Soil Health : Legumes, such as beans, can fix nitrogen in the soil, which is beneficial for surrounding plants. This process can increase soil fertility levels by 30%. Maximized Space : Planting compatible crops allows you to use garden space more efficiently, potentially increasing your planting area yield by 50%. Improved Pollination : Plants like sunflowers can attract bees, which boosts pollination and increases yields by 10% or more across various crops. Choosing Companion Plants Selecting the right companions for your garden is crucial. Here are some tried-and-true pairings that homesteaders recommend: Tomatoes and Basil : Not only does basil enhance the flavor of tomatoes, but it can also repel harmful pests like hornworms effectively. Carrots and Onions : This pairing masks each other's scent, making it harder for pests to locate their targets. Corn, Beans, and Squash : Known as the “Three Sisters,” this method supports each plant's growth: corn provides support for beans, while squash leaves block sunlight and help maintain soil moisture. Nasturtiums and Cabbage : Nasturtiums attract aphids away from cabbage, acting as a protective measure for more vulnerable plants. Borage and Strawberries : Borage not only attracts beneficial insects but also enhances strawberry growth by improving soil health and moisture retention. Creating an Effective Layout The layout of your garden is essential for successful companion planting. Here are tips to design your garden effectively: Plan Your Garden Beds : Group plants with similar water and sunlight requirements together. This ensures that all plants can thrive without competing for resources. Use Vertical Space : Incorporate climbing plants like peas or beans alongside lower-growing plants. This method can save up to 30% of your garden space. Interplanting : Instead of planting in uniform rows, consider mixing plants. This diversity can confuse pests and enhance the visual appeal of your garden. Edging with Herbs and Flowers : Plant rows of herbs and flowers around the edges of your garden. They not only deter pests but also attract essential pollinators. Companion planting garden showcasing diverse plants interspersed. Seasonal Considerations Timing is a vital aspect of gardening success. Each plant species has specific planting and growing times. Follow these seasonal guidelines for the best results: Fall & Winter Planting in Florida : Start with fast-growing crops that can be harvested early, such as radishes or lettuce, before the heat arrives. Succession Planting : As you harvest quick-maturing crops, replant those spaces with slower-growing varieties like peppers or eggplants to keep the production rolling. Winter Planting in Florida : Use crops that can thrive in cooler temperatures. Late-season options, such as kale or winter radishes, can extend your harvest into Spring. Common Mistakes to Avoid Even experienced gardeners can stumble when it comes to companion planting. Here are some pitfalls to be aware of: Ignoring Plant Needs : Not all plants thrive together. Always pay attention to individual water, sunlight, and nutrient requirements. Overcrowding : Planting too closely can lead to competition for resources, resulting in stunted growth or even plant death. Ensure adequate spacing—typically, a gap of at least six inches is beneficial for most plants. Neglecting Soil Health : While companion planting is valuable, regular soil testing and amendments are essential for a healthy garden. Forgetting to Rotate Crops : Changing the location of your crops each year prevents nutrient depletion and reduces pest issues. Diverse vegetables and herbs in a homesteader's garden promoting companion planting benefits. Grow a Thriving Garden with Companion Planting Companion planting is a wonderful way to enhance your garden's productivity naturally. By understanding plant relationships and strategizing their arrangements, you can cultivate a lush and harmonious garden. Whether you are a seasoned homesteader or a beginner gardener, incorporating companion planting can lead to bountiful harvests and a flourishing ecosystem. Take the time to mix those plants, and watch your garden come to life! Happy gardening!

I have been wanting a reversible rollout nesting box forever. If you ever had to pick up muddy or poopy eggs, you understand what I am saying. Chickens are messy and sometimes the mess ends up in the nesting boxes, especially during the Florida rainy season. We had contemplated this for a while, but these are not cheap, and there was always something else on the priority list of things we needed to purchase. A few weeks ago we finally pulled the trigger and bought one. Chris was as excited as I was and started putting it together right away. It really didn't take long as the included instructions were comprehensive and well written and in no time, this puppy was put together! Installing it outside in our existing coop was a bit more time-consuming. Since the coop in which we wanted this installed is an 8x8 Resin shed, Chris had to cut through the shed and build a support frame for it. Luckily for us both, Chris is meticulous and precise so the frame didn't take long to build and the nesting box was put in place. We removed all of their old nesting boxes and put some pine shavings on top of the mat so that it would look familiar. The hens were not impressed on the first day, and we found eggs everywhere but in the nesting box. On day two, however, the magic happened, and... CLEAN... SPOTLESS eggs!! I'll write an update by the end of the year how well it is holding up throughout the season and if our chickens continue to use it, but today was a win!

I went outside and fed the critters, and when I walked back, I noticed that some Butterfly Pea Pods (Scientific name: Clitoria ternate - appropriate when you see what the flower looks like!) were nicely dried and ripe for picking. This is the first year I am able to save my own seeds for these. I grow them for the flowers since they create beautiful wispy flowers that I then harvest and enjoy in tea (Bonus: It turns your Tea purple or Green depending on if you mix it with Lemon.) It also has a lot of health benefits, which I will leave you to Google for yourself. But I digress... Butterfly Pea Bush with Flowers Butterfly Pea Flowers - fresh and dried So this is the first time I harvested the pods to get the seeds, but what I didn't know is that upon touching them too tightly or putting them down with any enthusiasm, they open up and spread their seeds everywhere. Envision a spring load pea pod LOL Butterfly Pea Pods Butterfly Pea Seed Pod With all of the finesse of a Bomb Explosion expert, I am over here taking these pods apart so they don't fly all over my kitchen, and I finally succeeded... mostly! I have an old wine fridge that's set to 40F (the optimal temp to store seeds long-term) simply because I may not want to grow that specific thing this year, so I store them. The longevity of seeds at 40°F can vary depending on the type of seed of course, but generally, seeds stored at this temperature can remain viable for several years. Here are some general guidelines though... Seed Storage in Wine Fridge set to 40F Vegetable seeds: Most vegetable seeds can last 2-5 years when stored at 40°F. Flower seeds: Flower seeds typically last 1-3 years at this temperature. Herb seeds: Herb seeds usually remain viable for 2-3 years

Chris and I generally eat some sort of oat something for breakfast, whether it be Granola or another form. Recently we've been making overnight oats because it's delicious, healthy and requires little prep. Before you go to bed, grab a pint-sized Mason Jar and add the following: 3/4 cup of rolled oats 1/8 cup of Chia Seeds 3/4 cup of milk of your choice 1/2 tsp of Ceylon Cinnamon (adjust to your preference) and depending on how sweet you like it 1-2 TBSP of Maple Syrup. Stir this up, put a lid on it, stick it in the fridge, and in the morning, it's ready for eating. Overnight Oats in a Mason Jar

Creating a bee-friendly homestead is more than just a trend; it's a vital step in protecting our planet's essential pollinators! Bees are crucial to our ecosystem, impacting the growth of one-third of the foods we consume. If you want to create an outdoor space that supports these busy buddies while enhancing the beauty of your homestead, you’ve come to the right place. Let’s uncover five surprising secrets to cultivating a bee haven on your property. 1. Choose the Right Plants Selecting the right plants is the first step to attracting bees. Native plants are especially beneficial, as they provide the nectar and pollen that local bees need. Research shows that using native plants can increase bee populations by up to 50%. Consider adding a variety of flowers, herbs, and flowering shrubs to your garden. Some excellent options include: Bee balm : Known for its vibrant colors and aroma, it can attract many bee species. Lavender : Not only does it smell great, but it's also a favorite among honeybees. Mexican Heather: Nectar-rich flowers, Bees, and other pollinators will enjoy this year round. Sunflowers : These bright blooms not only captivate human eyes but also provide a rich food source for bees. Aim for diverse shapes, sizes, and bloom times to keep your garden buzzing from early spring through late fall. By creating a varied menu of plants, you can ensure there's something for every bee. 2. Create Diverse Habitats Bees are most comfortable in environments that offer different habitats. A well-structured landscape helps various species that prefer unique nesting sites flourish. Enhance your property with features like: A small brush pile : Solitary bees love this cozy refuge. Open patches of bare soil : Ground-nesting bees require undisturbed soil for laying their eggs. Dead wood or hollow stems : These serve as perfect nesting spots for specific bee species. Mud puddles : Bees need water for hydration and building; a small mud puddle can be essential. By creating diverse habitats, you welcome a wider range of bee species and boost wildlife diversity on your homestead. 3. Avoid Pesticides While keeping your homestead pristine might seem appealing, chemical pesticides can devastate bee populations. Research indicates that over 80% of pesticide products pose risks to honeybees. Many harmful chemicals can linger in the soil and flowers, impacting bees long after application. Instead of using harmful chemicals, consider natural alternatives like: Neem oil : This natural pesticide is safe and effective against pests. Insecticidal soap : A safe option that targets unwanted insects while being harmless to bees. You might also introduce beneficial insects, like ladybugs, which can help control pest populations without endangering bees. By eliminating pesticides, you improve the health of your entire ecosystem. 4. Provide Fresh Water Sources Just like us, bees need water to survive! A simple shallow water source can make all the difference. Consider placing a birdbath filled with little pebbles or stones in your yard. Bees can land safely on these surfaces without the risk of drowning. To ensure a continuous water supply, remember to refill it regularly. This small effort creates a vital watering hole for your bee visitors, encouraging them to stick around and help pollinate your plants. 5. Educate Your Neighbors Sharing knowledge can have a significant impact on bee conservation within your community. Take the initiative to inform your neighbors about the importance of bees and how they can cultivate their bee-friendly spaces as well. Organize community workshops that cover topics such as: Identifying native plants for local gardens. Implementing natural pest control methods. Designing bee-friendly landscapes. Sharing personal experiences and stories about the benefits of bee gardening can motivate others to join the cause. As more people understand and support bee conservation, the combined impact can lead to a healthier environment for these vital creatures. Embrace the Buzz Building a bee-friendly homestead goes beyond just planting flowers; it's a commitment to environmental health! By choosing the right plants, diversifying habitats, avoiding pesticides, providing water sources, and educating the community, you can make a real difference in supporting our buzzing friends. By embracing these tips, you enrich not only your garden but also contribute to a larger movement towards ecological wellness. Get started on unleashing the buzz in your homestead—your bees will be grateful! A vibrant flower garden full of bee-friendly plants is setup as a bee haven.

Guess who's back? Back again! Seminole Pumpkins, that's who! What on earth is a Seminole Pumpkin you may ask? Seminole pumpkins are a type of pumpkin native to Florida, particularly associated with the Seminole tribe, from which they take their name. These pumpkins are renowned for their resilience and adaptability to various growing conditions. They have a long history of cultivation by Native American tribes in Florida and were traditionally grown in the region for their nutritious flesh and seeds. Seminole pumpkins are known for their vine-like growth habit, which allows them to spread across large areas. They have a tough outer skin, making them resistant to pests and diseases, and they can be stored for extended periods. Seminole pumpkins are often used in cooking and can be roasted, baked, or used in soups and stews. They are prized for their sweet flavor and dense, creamy texture. Additionally, Seminole pumpkins are valued for their nutritional content, as they are rich in vitamins A and C, as well as fiber. Also, they are super super delicious, and we use them for everything here on our Homestead, where you'd typically use Pumpkins or Squash! Let me tell you our Story of Seminole Pumpkins. It began as an idea around our dinner table really when we ate pumpkin pie that was less than... say, we shall stellar. With a little research we soon found that the ideal pumpkin for Florida does exist and soon we found ourselves hunting down legit seeds. Etsy to the rescue! Upon their arrival, we planted 2 seeds; after all, we wanted to see how it did first and if the location we picked would work well. Fast forward about 3 months and we had Pumpkins everywhere! And I mean EVERYWHERE! We harvested 400lbs of Pumpkins from two single seeds over the entire season. If you are a Seminole Pumpkin lover, you may say to yourself, "But Mel, this doesn't look like a Seminole Pumpkin!" We questioned that for about 5 solid minutes as well but come to find out, Seminole Pumpkins come in all kinds of shapes. (You can read more about "The Seminole Pumpkin Project" done by David the Good, the Survival Gardener.) We happen to end up with a very prolific, delicious, long-neck variety. How do you grow Seminole Pumpkins? Growing Seminole pumpkins is relatively straightforward, and they are well-suited to a variety of growing conditions. Here's a basic guide to growing Seminole pumpkins: Climate and Soil: Seminole pumpkins thrive in warm climates, particularly in regions with long growing seasons. They prefer full sun and well-draining soil. They are known for their tolerance to various soil types, including sandy, loamy, and clay soils. However, soil that is rich in organic matter and slightly acidic to neutral pH is ideal. Planting: Start by selecting a suitable location for planting. Ensure there's enough space for the vines to spread, as Seminole pumpkins can be quite vigorous - they will go ANYWHERE!! Plant seeds directly into the ground after the last frost date in your area. Sow the seeds about 1 inch deep and 3 to 4 feet apart in rows or mounds. You can also start seeds indoors 3-4 weeks before the last frost date and transplant the seedlings outdoors once the soil has warmed up and there is no risk of frost. Watering: Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged, especially during the germination and fruiting stages. Water deeply to encourage strong root growth. When you grow these in Florida though, you can pretty much ignore that because our strong rainy season takes care of everything. Mulching around the base of the plants can help retain soil moisture and suppress weeds. Fertilization: Seminole pumpkins are not heavy feeders but will benefit from occasional fertilization. Use a balanced fertilizer or compost at planting time and side-dress with compost or aged manure during the growing season. When we planted ours, we just put some compost in the holes, put the seeds on top, and covered them with dirt. We did not Fertilize them at all. Support and Spacing: While Seminole pumpkins can sprawl along the ground, providing support such as trellises or fences can help save space and keep the fruits off the ground, reducing the risk of rotting. If you're growing them in rows, space the plants about 8 to 12 feet apart to allow for ample spreading. (We chaos garden and so the distance between the two seeds was more like 2 feet LOL) Pest and Disease Management: Seminole pumpkins are generally resistant to pests and diseases, but regular monitoring is still necessary. Handpick any pests you see, and treat any issues promptly. Ours had ZERO issues aside from one late in the season that got chewed on by a rodent or pecked by one of the chickens! Harvesting: Seminole pumpkins are typically ready for harvest 90 to 110 days after planting, depending on growing conditions. Harvest pumpkins when the vines start to die back and the skin has hardened to a deep orange color. Cut the pumpkins from the vine, leaving a few inches of stem attached. Store harvested pumpkins in a cool, dry place for several weeks to cure before using them. We did this and we still have about 30 Pumpkins in the pantry doing just fine :) All instructions aside, they are incredibly easy to grow and will run to wherever you let them. Every vine will have little tendrils and will hold onto whatever it can grab to secure itself to the ground. Ours didn't die over the winter and is back with new determination to take over the yard. Have at it Buddy, we're here for it! If you find yourself in an abundance situation, check out one of our favorite recipes which is nothing short of amazing!

I am already over summer, and it has barely started! The heat and humidity have been brutal, the Gnats are relentless, and in spite of every forthcoming rain predictions, it's bone dry outside. But such is Homestead life; the livestock doesn't care how hot it is, and with that, onward and forward in our week. Our week started off with adding two new family members to our Homestead, so say hello to two rescue Beardies. They are joining our family permanently! On the left is Daisy, a 1 1/2-year-old Bearded Dragon female, and on the right is Willow, also a 1 1/2-year-old female. Since we had two empty Zen habitats, they each got their own new luxury apartment ;) Next up this week was dealing with the heat and our animals. In addition to offering frozen and refrigerated fruit this week, we've also offered a Baby pool with fresh cool water which no one was really interested although to their Credit, at least the Turkeys tried LOL No worries though, our Flock is well taken care of and their runs are all in the shade for this precise reason and with that a lot cooler than in direct sunlight making it very bearable back there. Speaking of Turkeys, they've decided this week they needed a night out, and instead of sleeping in their coop flew on top of one of our sheds and remained the entire night. They were very happy to see us the following morning and followed us right back into their run! Thanks to the Turkeys pulling that little stunt, we didn't get to miss our "Queen of the Night" blooming this year and we were rewarded with seven blossoms and quite a show! The "Queen of the Night" flower refers to several types of night-blooming flowers known for their beauty and rarity. The most famous among them is the Epiphyllum oxypetalum, a species of cactus native to Central and South America. Here are some key characteristics: Queen of the Night (Epiphyllum oxypetalum): Night Bloomer: This flower typically blooms at night, usually only once a year, and its bloom lasts for just a few hours. Large and Fragrant: The flowers are large, white, and highly fragrant, making them a spectacular sight and scent. Epiphytic Nature: It is an epiphyte, meaning it grows on other plants, often on trees, deriving its nutrients and moisture from the air and rain. Succulent Stems: The plant has long, flat, succulent stems that can grow quite large. Symbolism: The flower is often associated with beauty and fleeting moments due to its brief blooming period. Other flowers, sometimes referred to as "Queen of the Night," include varieties of night-blooming cereus and night-blooming jasmine, but Epiphyllum oxypetalum is the most well-known. Pretty neat right? We were thrilled we didn't miss it this year as last year we were too late! Speaking of plants... we are nearly done with the greenhouse after getting more shelving AND new irrigation. As much as I loved the irrigation system that came with it, I couldn't for the life of me find more irrigation tubes with nozzles that would mirror the existing size and we ended up purchasing a new one so that i can water on both sides of the greenhouse. We also potted Mulberry cuttings and they were promptly sold! YAY the Homestead made some money!! Last but not least, the Bee Inspector came this week. We were very excited about this since it's been a good two months since we had our bees. Florida has a Honey Bee protection law that aims to ensure the health and sustainability of honeybee populations, recognizing their critical role in agriculture and the environment. The state seeks to create a supportive environment for both bees and beekeepers because of that. The Inspector came and looked at our Bees, made sure they were healthy, checked out the hive, and assured that the bees were in a spot where the general public couldn't just walk up to it and bother the bees. The inspector was very nice, answered all of our questions, offered himself as a point of contact if we needed anything and we passed with flying colors! We installed a "shade thrower" last week, so during the heat, the bees have some shade thrown on their hive. It seems to be working well! And that's all for this week! See ya'll next week :)

YAY, we got a break in the weather for a few days, and what better time to add more projects than when you're already overflowing with them so, I bought a Greenhouse! This one to be precise: So how my marriage works is, I design everything, purchase the materials, and at that point pop the cork off the Genie Bottle, and Chris pops out asking: "What do you need me to build, Babe?" LOL This was no exception, and my hubby sprang into action. We had to decide on a location. Because Florida gets super hot in the summer, putting a Greenhouse in the direct sun is a death sentence as far as I am concerned, and it would probably cook your plants in their pots. We opted to put ours in dappled sunlight where it gets more sun in the winter months but more shade in the summer. Chris had to level the ground and put down landscaping fabric unless I wanted to bring the dreaded wild vines into the greenhouse and have them take over. Next up were the Greenhouse bones and the included irrigation system and last but not least, the tarp. Our greenhouse has eight windows and two full-vented screened doors that you can all close or open as needed. The greenhouse itself went up really quickly. Chris hooked up the irrigation to a timer so that I didn't have to worry about forgetting to shut it back off and we moved some plants inside. At that point we called it a day. Yesterday, we went to Home Depot and picked up some shelves. We added those to the greenhouse and promptly populated them. Unfortunately, that's about all we got done because at that point, the weather got brutal, with a heat index over 103F every day and high humidity! There's always next week though..

Yuck! We're officially done "pre-heating" in Florida, and the heat has arrived! The last two were 95F and the humidity was so high that you've felt like a boiled Lobster being outside or to make it more relatable... imagine stepping into a hot shower... fully dressed with Makeup on! Since our Feathery pals don't care whether we're hot or not, we had to start our chores early this week to beat the relentless heat! First up was getting rid of the Pine Shavings in our coops and switching over to Pine pellets, a decision we have NOT regretted! Day 4, and the coops can be sifted like Kitty Litter and smell as fresh as day one! Next up, we picked up some Blueberry Bushes 2 weeks ago that also needed to be planted. Blueberries like a more acidic soil and so we had to make some amendments to ensure proper growth. Also, yellow flies and Gnats are HORRID right now, and we opted to hang fly traps in different places around the property. Beyond that, our John Deere had an issue (it was being looked at), and we had to dig out our trusty electric mower to give our garden a much-needed haircut! Needless to say, that is not all we did, as I still had to work, and Luna Roaches also had orders to fulfill so Chris and I just sleuthed away this week on various projects. I tackled the stuff inside while Chris (who must have been a Lizard in his former life because this is his kind of weather) tackled most of the chores outside. Due to having Skin Lupus, I, however, have to avoid the sun like it's a plague and thus tackle life inside our home. I made fresh Yogurt, baked some bread, processed 2 Chickens, and canned about 12 jars of Chicken Stock for the pantry. while I had the time with the long weekend, I finally got to use some of the Cilantro we're growing outside, and added it to a delicious Coconut Thai Curry Chicken dish. Oh, so worth it!! Overall it's really been an amazing week so far. This is also the first year that our 2 year old Plum tree sprung into action and is loaded with plums. They turned out delicious, juicy, and sweet! Last night we went outside and took a UV light to our tomatoes. Did you know that Hornworms, {major tomato destroyers) glow in the dark under a UV light? Lucky for them, there were none or our Chickens would have enjoyed a juicy snack ;) Besides doing that, Chris and I enjoy a moment of beautiful nighttime sounds of Crickets, Frogs, and Whippoorwill birds. The sky was clear, and you could count all of the stars. Sometimes you have to take a breather and enjoy a moment of Mother Nature on your Homestead. Last but not least, we sent the Chickens to earn their keep and have them turn the compost for us! They do as stellar job and provides them with enrichment and us with a much-needed break! See you next week!

I've been utterly fascinated with learning the language of bees. They are "scrubbing" the entrance here. (This is the equivalent of scrubbing clothes with a washboard!) Bees have a fascinating way of communicating with each other through a combination of body movements, pheromones, and even dances. One remarkable example is the waggle dance performed by honeybees to communicate the location of food sources to other hive members. Here's how it works: Scouting for Food: When a worker bee finds a good source of nectar or pollen, it returns to the hive. The Dance: The returning bee performs a dance on the vertical surface of the honeycomb, waggling its abdomen while moving in a figure-eight pattern. Direction: The angle of the waggle relative to the vertical comb indicates the direction of the food source in relation to the sun's position. For example, if the dance is performed straight up, it means the food source is directly towards the sun. If the dance is performed at an angle to the right of vertical, it means the food source is to the right of the sun's position. Distance: The duration of the waggle portion of the dance correlates with the distance to the food source. Longer waggle phases indicate greater distance. Intensity: The vigor of the dance communicates the quality of the food source. A more intense waggle dance suggests a richer or more abundant food source. By observing and interpreting these dances, other worker bees can quickly learn the location, distance, and quality of the food source and then navigate to it themselves. This remarkable form of communication allows honeybee colonies to efficiently exploit food resources in their environment. We'll try to catch detailed videos of Bee Language in future videos :)

Sweet Potatoes are one of the easiest crops you can grow in Florida and oh so delicious! But let's start at the beginning... What is a Sweet Potato? A sweet potato is a root vegetable that belongs to the Convolvulaceae family, along with other plants like morning glories. It's usually cultivated for its edible tuberous root, which is sweet and starchy in taste and has a smooth texture when cooked, but Sweet Potato Leaves are also edible and delicious in dishes. Sweet potatoes come in various colors, including orange, purple, and white, and they're rich in nutrients like vitamins A and C, potassium, and fiber. They can be cooked in various ways, such as baking, boiling, steaming, or frying, and are used in both sweet and savory dishes. We all had Sweet Potatoes given to us at someone Thanksgiving - no doubt ;) That said, aside from being nutritious, Sweet Potatoes are a low-maintenance crop. You grow the slips, cut them off the potato and stick it into the ground and don't worry about the plant again until it's time to harvest. In short... my kind of crop! How to grow Sweet Potato Slips Here's a basic guide on how to grow them: Start with a Sweet Potato: Choose a healthy sweet potato from a local market or grocery store. You'll want organic sweet potatoes because they have usually not been treated with chemicals that could inhibit sprouting. No sprouting = No Sweet Potatoes. Prepare the Sweet Potato: You'll find many different methods online, but I am going to share only mine because it's never failed us. Place the sweet potato horizontally into a container with dirt. Bury it halfway into the dirt. Place in a Warm, Sunny Spot: Put the container in a warm location with plenty of sunlight. Sweet potatoes need warmth and light to sprout. Ideal temperatures are around 75-80°F and up! Mine seem to grow like weeds at 85F though! Wait for Sprouts: In about 2-4 weeks, you should start to see sprouts emerging from the sweet potato . These sprouts are called slips. You can let them grow until they're around 6-8 inches long or longer or shorter. The first ones are usually about 4 inches long before i cut them off and plant them because... I ran out of patience waiting LOL Remove the Slips: Once the slips have grown to a suitable length, carefully twist or cut them off from the sweet potato. Make sure each slip has several leaves and some roots. This is advised but not necessary. I've planted some that were a stick with one leaf and they took off just fine. Root the Slips: Place the slips in a container of water, ensuring that the roots are submerged while the leaves remain above water. Let them root for about a week or two until you see a healthy root system develop. If you want, you can also stick them straight into the ground, but they may take a little longer to take off. Planting: After rooting, transplant the slips into soil. Choose a sunny spot in your garden with well-drained soil. Plant the slips about 12-18 inches apart and bury them halfway so the roots are covered but the leaves are above ground. Care: Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged. Sweet potatoes require regular watering, especially during dry periods. Mulching around the plants can help retain moisture and suppress weeds. As we're getting into the rainy season, this isn't really an issue, but during drought, if they are still young plants, they will need some help. Harvesting: Sweet potatoes are typically ready to harvest 3-4 months after planting, once the leaves begin to turn yellow and die back. Carefully dig around the plants to avoid damaging the tubers. The next step is of the utmost importance, or you'll end up with non-sweet potatoes that rot much more easily. Curing sweet potatoes is an important step in the post-harvest process. Curing helps sweet potatoes develop their characteristic sweet flavor and improves their storage How to cure Sweet potatoes properly: Harvest at the right time: Sweet potatoes should be harvested when they have reached their full size and are mature. The ideal time for harvesting is after the foliage has started to yellow but before the first frost. Handle with care: Be gentle when harvesting sweet potatoes to avoid bruising or damaging the skin. Bruised or damaged sweet potatoes are more susceptible to rot during curing. Clean the sweet potatoes: Gently brush off any excess soil from the sweet potatoes after harvesting. Do not wash them with water, as moisture can promote decay during curing. Allow them to dry: Place the sweet potatoes in a warm and well-ventilated area to dry for about 1-2 hours. This drying period helps to toughen the skin and prepare the sweet potatoes for curing. Curing process: The curing process requires a warm and humid environment, similar to the conditions of a greenhouse. The ideal temperature for curing sweet potatoes is around 80-85°F with a humidity level of 85-90%. Since we harvested ours in mid-October, we obviously didn't have that much humidity anymore. We put a sheet on our table on the deck, put them all on there, and threw another blanket on top of it. You can, however, create a curing chamber if you feel the need to: If you don't have access to a greenhouse or warm room, you can create a simple curing chamber using a small enclosed space like a basement, garage, or closet. Place a pan of water in the curing chamber to increase humidity. Curing duration: Sweet potatoes should be cured for about 10-14 days (I prefer 14 days). During this time, the starches in the sweet potatoes will convert to sugars, enhancing their sweetness. Check for signs of completion: After the curing period, check the sweet potatoes for signs of completion. The skin should be tough, and the flesh should be sweet and flavorful. Store properly: Once the sweet potatoes have been cured, store them in a cool, dry, and dark place with good ventilation. The ideal storage temperature is around 55-60°F—again, we're in Florida, so we just put them into our pantry room, which generally stays around 70°F in the winter and 74°F or so in the summer. However, do not refrigerate sweet potatoes, as cold temperatures can adversely affect their flavor and texture. Following these steps will help you cure sweet potatoes properly, resulting in sweeter and tastier tubers that can be stored for an extended period. Enjoy your freshly cured sweet potatoes in various dishes and recipes! We certainly do, and after six months of sitting in our Pantry, they are as fresh and firm as ever :) We hope this helps!

So first minor catastrophe in bee keeping: We went to check on the hive again to see if we can find the queen to mark her. Success, first frame there she is! Pretty, isn't it?? Bees are so fascinating and we finally were ready to mark our Queen! At that point, chaos ensues when the entire brood comb collapses and falls off the frame into the grass! Time stopped for a second as we grasped what just happened before the following transpired: With lightning speed, we grabbed the comb full of bees, honey, and whatnot, scooped it up, and put it in the now empty frame spot. It was instinct to put it back where it came from no matter how bad of a decision this may turn out to be (we don't know yet!). Chris started picking up bees off the grass that were sticky with honey and had a hard time moving and put them back in the hive. We put the hive back together, put the queen excluder on, and added the Super on top. At that point, we came inside, snapped at each other for a moment out of frustration (Oh yeah! That's actually happened, lol), calmed down, and called Chris's nephew, who's an experienced beekeeper. He calmed us down quite a bit by telling us that the bees would clean the mess up and it would be OK. Once they clean everything up we can check and see if our Queen is still alive. If not, one of two things will happen. We will either re-queen our hive by buying a new queen, or the hive will create a new queen. We ended up bringing the now empty frame inside, putting a bee wax foundation in it (so they'll have a head start when it goes back into the hive), and adding Rubber bands for comb stability (most folks wire the frames, but since we're beginners, we totally didn't know that, and the beekeeper nephew said rubber bands work just as well). So now we wait. We wait to see if they clean up the hive after our mess, and we wait to see if the Queen is still alive since she was on the dropped comb somewhere. Amazingly, the bees were calm enough, and while stressed when the comb bit the dust, neither of us got stung, and Chris was able to handle the individual bees (and help them not get pestered by Fire ants that, of course, caught wind of the situation.... opportunistic little bastards!) without issues. I feel like Beekeeping is not for the faint of heart and I swear I stopped breathing for a minute lol ... that was definitely stressful but we've learned a lot of valuable lessons! And now the lesson Chris learned: