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When we ordered our Bees we got our package with an unmarked Queen. What does that even mean you wonder? An unmarked queen is simply a queen bee in a beehive that hasn't been marked with a dot of paint on her thorax. Beekeepers often mark queen bees with a small dot of brightly colored paint to make them easier to spot during hive inspections. They literally sell paint kits for this because you can't just put any old paint on a bee. The color of the paint corresponds to the year the queen bee was introduced into the hive, which helps you as a beekeeper to track her age and productivity because every few years, you'll need to re-queen your hive so that it remains productive. Also we wanted to see if we could add a Super on top yet. Hoooold up Mel... what is a Super? I agree, it's a lot of new terms and we've learned those as we went along. In beekeeping, the "super" refers to a section of the beehive where surplus honey is stored by the honey bees. It's essentially an additional box or compartment placed above the brood chamber (where the queen bee lays her eggs and the worker bees care for the larvae) to provide extra space for honey storage. Supers are typically added to the hive during the flowering season. The honey bees then collect nectar from flowers, convert it into honey (Ha! Wait until we get into that at a later blog in time!), and store it in the cells of the frames within the super. Once the frames are filled with capped honey, indicating that it's ready for harvest, beekeepers can remove the super and extract the honey. We will not be doing that, though, since we have a Flow Hive, and it's just not needed. On our Hive, we turn a key, the Flow frames separate, the Honey flows in a Jar on tap, and we turn the key again to restore the Frames to their original state... minus the Honey. No disturbance to the bees and from our perspective, no messy extraction job. Back to the Story! We put on safety equipment, lit our Bee Smoker, and marched into the yard. Now, you may wonder why beekeepers have smokers. The Smoker serves several purposes: Calming Bees:  When bees detect smoke, they interpret it as a signal that their hive is at risk of fire. In response, they gorge themselves on honey in preparation to flee the hive, reducing their aggression and making them less likely to sting. (We didn't really need it for this inspection as our Bees were super calm but safety should always be number 1) Masking Pheromones: Honey bees communicate using pheromones released by their bodies. When a hive is opened for inspection, the disruption can trigger defensive behavior in the bees. By introducing smoke into the hive, the smoker masks these alarm pheromones, reducing the likelihood of defensive responses from the bees. Bees communicate and respond to all kinds of things and we'll get to that at a later time as well. Hive Inspections: The calming effect of smoke allows beekeepers to conduct hive inspections more safely and efficiently. By minimizing the risk of bee stings and aggression, beekeepers can work more comfortably and effectively, which is essential for tasks like checking hive health, monitoring honey production, and managing hive conditions which is exactly what you do Hive inspections for. Today, our primary task was to find the Queen and mark her. This task included looking at all of our frames to see if you could spot her. Now, in a sea of bees, this is a near-impossible task. If you look at the following pictures, you kind of get an idea of what we were looking at, and it was really like trying to find Waldo! It's also the reason why marked bees are so important because you want to spend as little time as possible disturbing your bees! Spoiler Alert: We were NOT successful, but practice makes perfect. Someone told us spotting your Queen takes practice, and we're definitely here for that! Luckily, we did not really need to use the Smoker or wear the bee jacket as our bees were chilled out and relaxed, but it is still a good practice and safety measure. We made sure we put the frames back in the right order and closed up the hive. Oh, we also didn't add the Super yet. The standard rule is 7/10, or when the bees cover 7 out of the existing 10 frames, at that point, it's the proper time to add the Honey Super! We'll just have to practice more patience :)

We've never had to battle any sort of chicken issues that you would normally see with Chickens like Parasites, Sour Crop, Bumble Foot, egg-related issues, Coccidiosis, Respiratory infections etc. These are rather common with Chickens, yet somehow we've evaded all of them. Imagine our surprise when a few days ago, we've discovered we had Chicken Mites! Just the word gives me the heebie jeebies! But here we were, newcomers to serious issues, and we had to address the problem. Why didn't we discover this earlier? Well, we noticed feathers missing behind their heads but thought that Polaris, our Rooster, had simply given in to spring feelings and was being too enthusiastic during mating. After consulting with the University of YouTube, where the consensus was that Elector PSP was the best treatment choice, we set out to order the goods (Holy Moly, an 8-oz bottle is $160!). Luckily, we found a small Homestead that sells it in 9ml potions, which is all we needed. That amount makes a 1 Gallon of treatment, more than enough to treat our Chickens and the coop very thoroughly. When the tiny bottle arrived today, Chris decided he would go tackle the flock by himself since I was still tied to my desk by my regular 9-5 job. I asked him to take a video for me. What transpired next was ... well.. it was Chris. PS: No Chickens were harmed in the making of this video LOL

This little bottle has saved me from losing my marbles and prevented me from believing that my body temperature indeed has reached 150F! I am turning 53 this year, and with that, a new chapter of being that eventually reaches almost every woman - Menopause. I think this is not necessarily a topic very often openly discussed by women, but let's do that for a moment. I had my tubes tied in 1993 on Valentine's Day the year after my youngest was born. I was sure I was done with having children and saw no reason not to go through with the procedure and did so happily. Years of monthly hell followed because what they didn't tell you expressively is what it can do to your body in some cases. I have dealt with it for 31 years and so imagine my not so unpleasant surprise when Hot flashes started. Perimenopause - you beautiful Beast! What I wasn't prepared for was being fine and out of nowhere feeling like someone just poured lava on me LOL Insert herbalism! Since I knew that eventually, my reproductive years would start waving goodbye, I have been researching for a while on how I wanted to handle the transition. I plan on doing this 100% naturally and rather replace what Hormones I can the herbal way. I prepped some Black Cohosh, Vitex, Black Licorice Root, and some other stuff and have been trying out those three over the past few weeks. Since the only noticeable issue, I am having right now is Hot Flashes, this little All-star Root has been my life saver! A dropperful or a dropper and a half when I feel the onset of a Hot flash (4-5 times a day in the beginning, but now I am at 2-3 times a day) and my life get's so much better ❤ So here's to Plants! May they continue to reign in all of their beauty and superior usefulness! To make a licorice root tincture, you'll need licorice root (Glycyrrhiza glabra), high-proof alcohol (such as vodka or brandy), a clean glass jar with a tight-fitting lid, and optionally, a dark glass dropper bottle for storage. Here's a simple method: Ingredients: Dried licorice root (cut and sifted) High-proof alcohol (at least 80 proof, such as vodka or brandy) Instructions: Prepare the Licorice Root: Start by obtaining dried licorice root from a reputable source. You can use licorice root chips or cut and sifted licorice root for this tincture. Ensure that the licorice root is clean and free from any dirt or debris. Ratio: The typical ratio for making a tincture is 1 part dried herb to 5 parts alcohol by volume. However, licorice root is quite potent, so you may want to start with a lower ratio, such as 1 part licorice root to 3 parts alcohol. Combine Ingredients: Place the dried licorice root in a clean glass jar. Pour the high-proof alcohol over the licorice root, ensuring that it is completely submerged. Seal the jar tightly with a lid. Shake and Store: Shake the jar well to thoroughly mix the licorice root and alcohol. Store the jar in a cool, dark place, away from direct sunlight and heat. Steeping Time: Allow the licorice root to steep in the alcohol for at least 4 to 6 weeks. During this time, shake the jar gently every few days to agitate the mixture. Strain: After the steeping period, strain the tincture through a fine mesh strainer or cheesecloth to remove the licorice root solids. Squeeze the strainer or cheesecloth to extract as much liquid as possible. Bottle and Store: Transfer the strained tincture into dark glass dropper bottles for storage. Label the bottles with the date and contents. Store the tincture in a cool, dark place, and it should remain potent for several years. Dosage: The dosage of licorice root tincture can vary depending on the individual and the intended use. It's best to start with a small dose (e.g., a few drops) and gradually increase as needed, following the guidance of a qualified healthcare professional, especially if using licorice root for medicinal purposes. Important Note: Licorice root can interact with certain medications and may not be suitable for everyone, especially for those with high blood pressure, kidney disease, or other health conditions. It's important to consult with a healthcare professional before using licorice root or any herbal remedy, especially in tincture form.

We were going to go to a Flower expo but due to a Homedepot delivery it was getting too late and too hot. Instead, we went to ACE's hardware here, and I scored big time for my Food Forrest! 2 x Lychee Mauritius - Litchi chinensis Loquat- Eriobotrya japonica Starfruit - Averrhoa carambola Santa Rosa Plum - Ciruelo Santa Rosa Black Sapote - Diospyros nigra I only stopped buying because we ran out of space in the back of our SUV and we didn't bring the trailer! LOL Yes, we could have started everything from seed ourselves but Fruit Trees take a few years to produce and grow and I wanted some tree's that already were big enough to have a head start! We're still waiting on these 3 x 4-5 foot trees from tytyga.com: 1 Morris Plum 1 Loquat 1 Anna Apple tree Starter Plants (between 2-12 inches tall) 1 x Guava tree 1 x Tropical almonds 4 x Purple Passion Fruits 1 x Gojii Berry Along with the stuff we are planting from seeds, this should be a good starting point for our Florida Zone 9b Permaculture Food Forrest! (For the Fruit producing tree's anyway)

All you really have to do is go outside and stare into the vast abyss that is your property and trust me, there will be 127864127864 Projects that magically appear on your To do list. That's at least how it out here! Chris is thrilled about the longer days; to him, this means there are a few extra hours he can work outside. For me, this means dinner is now at 8 pm instead of 6 pm, because once you eat dinner, nothing else work-wise happens! This morning started innocently enough. We had a cup of coffee and decided to watch a few Beekeeping YouTube videos. The dogs wanted out and that was the end of what almost felt like it was going to be a lazy day. As I stepped outside, I was reminded that I needed to harvest the last test bed of Potatoes. I like trying out a few new things in a few raised garden beds to see how they work out. Do they grow? Are they high-maintenance plants? Do they need much help from me growing? The end result is that the few Potato plants I tried out did well, and next season, we're going to do this on a much larger scale. While I was out there, I went to check on the bulbing onions I was also trying out for the first time this year and decided to pull one. So far, so good (we'll use that one in dinner tonight!), and then I spotted some beans that needed to be picked. At this point, I had succumbed to the idea that this was what I was going to be doing for the next 30 minutes. The Sun was still not high enough to bother me, and I was feeling the morning energy in my garden. At this point Chris decided it would be a good time to go back out and build the chicken run (more on that in another post). As I took my bounty back inside, I spotted black mulberries that were begging me to eat them. Who am I to argue with a Mulberry bush? Last year I radically trimmed the Mulberry bush by cutting off 50% of every single branch and removing all leaves. It came back with a vengeance and if you're interested in the why and how, Jacqueline from the Wild Floridan is where I got that idea from! It worked well, and my Mulberry bush is absolutely LOADED with big juicy berries this season as you can see below. I harvested a bunch and I'll make something with those for dessert. And then we spotted the most amazing thing! Our Pineapple Guava started to bloom for the first time ever, and lord are those flowers GORGEOUS!! We're hoping it will fruit this year for the first time as well! Aren't these flowers beautiful?! At this point, the sun was starting to bother me, and I went back inside, but the morale of the story? If you want to be busy, just walk outside... ;)

It's about that time of the year when I put my yearly order of Ladybugs (specifically Hippodamia convergens) in! (And no, they are not Asian Ladybug beetles but indeed are Hippodamia convergens LOL) Chris and I release about 6000 to 9000 ladybugs every year for Aphid control and it's highly successful since we make it through the year without aphid issues. Every year this is an almost spiritual experience for us. We order from https://www.naturesgoodguys.com/ and this will be our third year. So why should you add ladybugs to your yard? Adding ladybugs to your yard can be beneficial for several reasons: Natural Pest Control: Ladybugs are voracious predators of aphids, scale insects, mealybugs, and other soft-bodied pests that can damage plants in your yard or garden. By introducing ladybugs, you can help control these pest populations in an eco-friendly and natural way, reducing the need for chemical pesticides. Balanced Ecosystem: Ladybugs are part of a healthy ecosystem and contribute to the balance of beneficial insects in your yard. By attracting and supporting populations of ladybugs, you can encourage biodiversity and create a more resilient ecosystem that is less prone to pest outbreaks. Pollination: While ladybugs are primarily known as predators, some species also feed on pollen and nectar. By providing a diverse range of flowering plants in your yard, you can attract ladybugs and other pollinators, helping to enhance pollination and improve fruit and seed set in your garden. Educational Opportunity: Introducing ladybugs to your yard can also provide an educational opportunity, especially for children. Observing the lifecycle of ladybugs, from eggs to larvae to pupae to adults, can help teach valuable lessons about the natural world and the importance of beneficial insects in the garden. Non-toxic Solution: Using ladybugs for pest control is a non-toxic and environmentally friendly alternative to chemical pesticides. Ladybugs do not harm plants or other beneficial insects, making them a safe and sustainable option for controlling pests in your yard or garden. Overall, adding ladybugs to your yard can help promote a healthy and thriving garden ecosystem while reducing the need for harmful pesticides. Whether you purchase ladybugs from a garden center or create a habitat to attract them naturally, these beneficial insects can play a valuable role in maintaining a balanced and resilient landscape. And trust us, releasing that many ladybugs is a spiritual experience! Won't they fly away though? Often, they will eventually, but here is a tip that helped us: Buy Ladybug food, dilute it with water per instructions, and spray your plants with it. Release Ladybugs at Twilight to ensure that they stick around.

Last year, we grew Cassava, aka Yuca (not the same thing as Yucca), for the first time! We got a really good amount of harvest from the 10 we planted and when we were done, we gave away a ton of cuttings to our Homesteading neighbors. We had a TON left and I now had to figure out how to store it best so that it would survive until spring. I ended up putting them all in a big black garbage bag, left the bag open, and put it in one of our sheds. This method did not fail me, and when I went and checked out what survived so I could plant them, all but one out of the 50 or so are viable! GO ME! I'll be planting some for foilage and looks along the fence and a bunch for harvest and eating! I am so thrilled this worked and they didn't dry out and died in the last 3-4 months!! What is Cassava you may ask? Cassava, also known as Manihot or yuca, is a starchy root vegetable native to South America but grown in tropical and subtropical regions around the world. It is a staple food for millions of people in Africa, Asia, and Latin America. Cassava is a major source of carbohydrates in many developing countries and is valued for its ability to grow in poor soil and tolerate drought conditions. The cassava plant has palm-like leaves and produces tuberous roots that can vary in size from a few inches to several feet long. These roots are rich in carbohydrates and can be harvested and processed into various forms for consumption. Cassava can be boiled, mashed, fried, or ground into flour, which is then used to make a variety of dishes such as bread, cakes, and dumplings. One important thing to note about cassava is that it contains cyanogenic glycosides, which can release cyanide when consumed in large quantities. Therefore, proper processing techniques such as peeling, soaking, and cooking are necessary to remove the toxins and make the cassava safe to eat. How do you grow Cassava? Cassava (Manihot esculenta) is primarily grown in tropical and subtropical regions around the world. It thrives in warm climates with temperatures consistently above 60°F (15°C). Generally, cassava is cultivated in USDA hardiness zones 9b through 11, although it can also be grown as an annual crop in zones with shorter growing seasons. Specifically, cassava grows well in regions with the following conditions: Temperature: Cassava requires temperatures between 77°F to 86°F (25°C to 30°C) for optimal growth. It can tolerate brief periods of temperatures above 95°F (35°C) as well as occasional light frost, but prolonged exposure to cold temperatures can damage the plant. Rainfall: While cassava is relatively drought-tolerant and can grow in areas with low rainfall, it performs best with consistent moisture. Adequate rainfall or irrigation is important, especially during the growing season, to ensure proper root development. Sunlight: Cassava is a sun-loving plant and requires full sun for optimal growth. It should be planted in a location with at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight per day. Soil: Cassava can adapt to a wide range of soil types but prefers well-drained sandy loam or loamy soil with a pH between 5.5 and 6.5. It does not thrive in waterlogged or heavy clay soils. Given these requirements, cassava is commonly grown in tropical and subtropical regions of Africa, Asia, Latin America, and the Caribbean, where these conditions are met. However, it can also be cultivated in certain warmer regions of temperate climates. Here's a general guide on how to grow cassava: Selecting planting material: Cassava is typically grown from stem cuttings rather than seeds. Select healthy stems from mature cassava plants, ensuring they are free from disease and damage. Each cutting should be about 20-30 centimeters long and contain at least two to three nodes. Preparing the planting site: Choose a sunny location with well-drained soil. Cassava can tolerate a range of soil types but prefers sandy loam soil with a pH between 5.5 and 6.5. Clear the land of weeds and debris and prepare the soil by loosening it to a depth of about 20-30 centimeters. Planting: Plant the cassava cuttings horizontally in shallow trenches or furrows, with the nodes facing upwards. Space the cuttings about 1 to 1.5 meters apart to allow room for growth. Cover the cuttings with soil, leaving the top node exposed. Watering: Water the newly planted cassava cuttings thoroughly to help establish their roots. Cassava requires regular watering, especially during dry periods, but it is important not to overwater as it can lead to root rot. Weeding and maintenance: Keep the planting area free from weeds, which can compete with cassava for nutrients and water. Mulching around the plants can help suppress weeds and conserve soil moisture. Fertilize the cassava plants regularly with a balanced fertilizer to promote healthy growth. Harvesting: Cassava typically takes about 8 to 18 months to mature, depending on the variety and growing conditions. The roots can be harvested when they reach a desirable size, usually indicated by the yellowing of the lower leaves and the softening of the stem. To harvest, carefully dig up the roots, taking care not to damage them. So if you are in a Tropical Climate, this may be just the plant for your Homestead too!

Okinawa Okinawa spinach, also known as Gynura bicolor or Sambung Nyawa, is a leafy green vegetable native to Southeast Asia, particularly Indonesia, Malaysia, and the Philippines. Despite its name, it is not a true spinach (Spinacia oleracea) but rather a member of the Asteraceae family. Okinawa spinach is known for its vibrant purple stems and green leaves, which are edible and have a mild, slightly peppery flavor. The leaves can be eaten raw in salads or sandwiches, or cooked as a vegetable in stir-fries, soups, and other dishes. Additionally, the plant is valued for its medicinal properties in traditional herbal medicine practices in some regions. Okinawa spinach is a fast-growing and relatively low-maintenance plant, making it popular among home gardeners and permaculture enthusiasts. It prefers warm, tropical climates and well-drained soil, and it can be grown both in the ground and in containers. The plant thrives in full sun to partial shade and requires regular watering to keep the soil evenly moist. One notable characteristic of Okinawa spinach is its ability to propagate easily from stem cuttings, making it easy to propagate and share among gardeners. It is also known for its resilience and ability to withstand pests and diseases, making it a reliable addition to home gardens and sustainable food production systems. Overall, Okinawa spinach is a nutritious and versatile vegetable that adds both color and flavor to culinary dishes. Here's a simple recipe for Okinawa spinach stir-fry: Ingredients: 2 cups Okinawa spinach leaves, washed and chopped 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 tablespoon olive oil or vegetable oil 1 teaspoon soy sauce 1/2 teaspoon sesame oil (optional) Salt and pepper to taste Red pepper flakes (optional, for added spice) Sesame seeds for garnish (optional) Instructions: Heat the olive oil in a large skillet or wok over medium heat. Add the minced garlic to the skillet and sauté for 1-2 minutes until fragrant. Add the chopped Okinawa spinach leaves to the skillet and stir-fry for 3-4 minutes until they begin to wilt. Drizzle the soy sauce and sesame oil (if using) over the spinach, and season with salt, pepper, and red pepper flakes to taste. Stir to combine. Continue to cook for another 2-3 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the spinach is tender but still vibrant green. Remove the skillet from heat and transfer the stir-fried Okinawa spinach to a serving dish. Garnish with sesame seeds if desired, and serve hot as a side dish or over cooked rice as a main course. We also use it in Quiches all the time! The funny part is, it tastes exactly like Carrots!

Had to try something new. Today that was making Tomato Paste. Since I didn't want to prep tons of tomatoes to do this, I bought Cento pureed Tomatoes (I love their flavor and use their peeled San Marzanos to make all of my sauces anyway). I decided to go that route. Now let me say that unless you grow your own and use those for Tomato Paste, this is way more cost-efficient. So why did I do this? Often I cook a dish and need only a teaspoon or so and after putting the rest of a 6 oz can back into the fridge, it'll remain there until it either grows legs or gets its own junk mail Making 4 oz jars is far far closer to what I actually use. My homemade Tomato Paste contains nothing but a bit of salt, Tomato and lemon juice for acidity since I water bathed the finish product. Not a single junk ingredient. No stabilizers, no preservatives, nothing! It tastes SOOOO much better. Seriously, I can't begin to convey how much better it tastes than conventional cans you can buy. Super simple to make: 2 cans of Cento pureed Tomatoes Salt (I used 3/4 of a tbsp per can) 2 tbsp of lemon juice per can Heat oven to 350F put both trays in the oven. I stirred my batches 1 hour in and from there checked on them every 15 min until it has the consistency I wanted. Filled 5 x 4oz jars, water bathed for 40 minutes and voila, all done.

Building an insect hotel is a fun and eco-friendly project that provides shelter and nesting spots for various insects in your garden. Here's a step-by-step guide on how to build an insect hotel: Materials You'll Need: Wooden pallet or wooden planks Bamboo canes of various diameters Hollow stems (reeds, sunflower stems, etc.) Pinecones, bark, and small branches Clay pots or bricks Straw or dry leaves Wire mesh or chicken wire Hammer and nails or screws Saw Drill and drill bits String or wire for hanging Optional: wood paint or sealant Step-by-Step Instructions: Design and Plan: Decide on the size and design of your insect hotel. You can keep it simple or get creative with the design. Insect hotels can be single-layer or multi-layer structures, and they can be hung on a wall or placed on the ground. Prepare the Frame: If you're using a wooden pallet, disassemble it into individual wooden planks. Alternatively, cut the wooden planks to the desired dimensions for your insect hotel. Create a rectangular or square frame by nailing or screwing the planks together at the corners. Prepare the Insect Habitats: Bamboo Canes: Cut bamboo canes into shorter sections, leaving one end closed. Arrange them inside the wooden frame, packing them tightly to create nesting tubes for solitary bees. Hollow Stems: Gather hollow stems like reeds and sunflower stems. Bundle them together and place them in the frame to provide nesting spaces for various insects. Pinecones, Bark, and Branches: Create nooks and crannies by placing pinecones, bark, and small branches between the bamboo canes and hollow stems. Clay Pots or Bricks: Stack clay pots or bricks to create small cavities where insects can hide and nest. Straw or Dry Leaves: Fill gaps and spaces with straw or dry leaves to offer additional nesting material. Add Wire Mesh or Chicken Wire:Cover the open side of the wooden frame with wire mesh or chicken wire. This helps keep the nesting materials in place and provides stability to the structure. Secure the Backing:Attach the wire mesh or chicken wire securely to the wooden frame using nails or staples. Hang or Place the Insect Hotel:Attach a string or wire to the back of the insect hotel to hang it on a sturdy support like a fence, wall, or tree branch. Alternatively, you can place the insect hotel on the ground. Maintain and Enjoy:Check the insect hotel periodically to make sure it's in good condition. Replace any damaged materials and observe the insects that come to inhabit it. Different insects may visit at different times of the year. Remember that insect hotels can attract a variety of beneficial insects to your garden, such as solitary bees, ladybugs, lacewings, and more. They contribute to pollination and natural pest control. Customize your insect hotel according to the insects you want to attract and the materials available to you.

Cranberry Hibiscus, also known as Roselle (Hibiscus sabdariffa), is native to West Africa but is now cultivated in tropical and subtropical regions around the world. It is commonly grown as an ornamental plant, as well as for its culinary and medicinal uses. Here are some key points about where Cranberry Hibiscus grows: Climate: Cranberry Hibiscus thrives in warm, tropical and subtropical climates. It prefers temperatures between 60°F to 90°F (15°C to 32°C) and requires a frost-free environment to grow. It can tolerate a wide range of conditions but grows best in areas with high humidity and ample sunlight. Soil: Cranberry Hibiscus grows well in a variety of soil types, including sandy loam, clay loam, and well-drained soils. However, it prefers fertile, slightly acidic to neutral soil with good moisture retention. It does not tolerate waterlogged or poorly drained soils. Water: While Cranberry Hibiscus is relatively drought-tolerant once established, it requires regular watering, especially during dry periods. It is important to keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged to promote healthy growth and flowering. Sunlight: Cranberry Hibiscus thrives in full sun to partial shade. It requires at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight per day to produce abundant foliage and flowers. In areas with intense sunlight, some afternoon shade may be beneficial to prevent leaf scorch. Cultivation: Cranberry Hibiscus can be grown as an annual or perennial depending on the climate. In tropical regions, it may grow year-round as a perennial shrub, while in temperate climates, it is often grown as an annual or brought indoors during the winter months. Propagation: Cranberry Hibiscus can be propagated from seeds or stem cuttings. Seeds should be sown directly into the soil after the danger of frost has passed, while stem cuttings can be rooted in water or soil. Overall, Cranberry Hibiscus is a versatile and adaptable plant that can thrive in a variety of growing conditions, making it suitable for cultivation in many regions with warm climates How to make a Beverage from Cranberry Hibscus Flowers Making a beverage with Cranberry Hibiscus flowers is a refreshing and simple process. These flowers are known for their tangy and cranberry-like flavor, making them an excellent addition to drinks. Here's a recipe for a Cranberry Hibiscus Flower Iced Tea: Ingredients: 1/4 cup dried Cranberry Hibiscus flowers 4 cups water Sweetener of your choice (e.g., honey, sugar, agave syrup) to taste Ice cubes Lemon or lime slices for garnish (optional) Instructions: Rinse the dried Cranberry Hibiscus flowers under cool water to remove any dust or impurities. In a saucepan, bring 4 cups of water to a boil. Once the water is boiling, add the dried Cranberry Hibiscus flowers to the saucepan. Reduce the heat to low and let the flowers simmer for about 10 minutes. This will allow the flavors to infuse into the water. After simmering, turn off the heat and let the mixture cool for a few minutes. Strain the liquid to remove the Cranberry Hibiscus flowers, leaving you with a vibrant red hibiscus tea. Sweeten the tea to your liking with your preferred sweetener. Start with a small amount, then taste and adjust as needed. Let the sweetened tea cool to room temperature. Once the tea has cooled, transfer it to the refrigerator and let it chill for at least an hour. When you're ready to serve, fill glasses with ice cubes and pour the chilled Cranberry Hibiscus iced tea over the ice. Garnish each glass with a slice of lemon or lime, if desired. Enjoy your homemade Cranberry Hibiscus Flower Iced Tea! It's a delicious and refreshing drink that's perfect for hot days or any time you're craving a tangy and fruity beverage. You can also experiment with adding other flavors or herbs to customize the taste to your liking. Candied Hibiscus Flowers: Great in Popcorn like snacks or salads! Clean and dry your hibiscus flowers, petals or calyx. Paint a super thin layer of egg white onto each side of the flower petals or blossoms. Coat with fine sugar (can sprinkle it on or roll in it) Place them on a piece of parchment paper. Place in a dehydrator or Bake at 170 degrees for about 7 hours. Store in an airtight container at room temperature. Agua de Jamaica (Hibiscus Tea) Recipe 2 quarts water 3/4 to 1 cup sweetener to taste. Use your favorite sweetener. 1 cup dried Hibiscus flowers (Hibiscus sabdariffa) 1/2 Cinnamon stick (Ceylon cinnamon) optional A few thin slices of Ginger (Zingiber officinale) optional A few Allspice berries (Pimenta dioica) optional Dash of Lime juice Orange or lime slices for garnish Bring the water to a boil the water. Add the Cinnamon, Ginger, and Allspice to the water, reduce heat and allow to simmer for 10 minutes; then add the sweetener, allowing the sweetener to dissolve fully. Add the hibiscus flowers and remove them from heat. Allow the flowers to infuse for 20-30 minutes. Strain the mixture into a pitcher and add your fruit slices. If you want to shake it up, add raspberries or mandarins. This drink is refreshing and nourishing. Agua de Jamaica is a refreshing beverage made of dried hibiscus flowers. It is refreshing and light—ideal for family bbq's, picnics, or Sunday brunch. This tea is a diuretic; it is beneficial for blood pressure and contains vitamin C.

As our Summer Gardening season is just about wrapped up (we still have some stragglers producing) and some of the fall crops are planted and growing, I can look back and go "Ok, what did we do differently this year that we succeeded? And why did it work..." We planted native Florida varieties a lot or things that were adapted to this climate. Growing things that grow better in different zones are going to struggle here because they are not adapted well to our heat/humidity/bugs etc. If you stick largely with Florida-adapted plants, your garden will have a much easier time flourishing! We didn't spray anything... at all. Our Garden was full of predators and we had wasps, ladybugs, spiders and everything else under the sun that basically did the pest controlling for us! Our Narnia (Cowpea) tunnel was fuuuuuuulll of predatory stink bugs and we identified a lot of hunting insects there. BUT... we didn't lose any crops. They literally did all of the work for us, and the tunnel, while finally thinning out, is still producing healthy cowpeas. We started with really good composting soil. Last spring we had ordered a truckload of topsoil and they delivered the most amazing composted soil that helped us grow healthy plants in abundance. I actually came across a video last night from "David the Good", where he laid out these exact things and explained why they work. It really is worth watching https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hX_jHn-oXv8